Specifications:Įxcellent protection against sheath waves and voltage surges.Double voltage surge protection. The inner conductor of the coax cable is insulated with capacitors providing coarse and fine voltage surge protection. This is achieved by using a small toroidal transformer. The galvanic isolator GI 300 separates the path of the direct current between the outer shield of the coax cable and the shielding of the antenna feeding line in order to suppress interference caused by potential differences. The unit also has integrated double over-voltage protection and input and output are blocked for DC voltage. The unit can be used in many receiving applications, It will also work with frequencies up to 1 GHz but above 300 MHz insertion loss may increase by up to 3db. The GI300 covers a wide-band range of 30 kHz – 300 MHz (typ. The GI300 suppresses noise reaching the ground connections on the receiver. There's an article on building one in the November Practical Boat Owner Practical Boat Owner a british sailing mag.This product is replaced by the successor GI1000. Yandina LTD had instructions on how to build one on thier website and I used that but they may have pullde it by now. That way if one recitfer blows then the other will carry the load. Hook one ground wire end to the + and the other to the. You need the heat sink as the ground has to be able to handle the full AC current load. ![]() It helps to put heatsink grease in the cavity when mounting the recitfiers if you have it. Mount the rectifiers on the aluminum heat sink with the bolts spacing the recitfiers at lest 4" apart. You're only ging to use the + and - terminals that are diagonally opposie eachother on the bridge recitfire, so cut off the other two terminals. Stainess steel bolts and nuts to mount the rectiifers to the aluminium. They are square devices with a bolt hole in the center and four spade connector terminals on the back 1 labeled +, one - and two usually labeled AC.Ībout 30 sq in of aluminium 1/8 inch thick for a heat sink. You need 2 high current bridge rectifiers each capable of handling full shore power current. I built my own, using diodes (actially bridge rectifiers), here's how I recall doning this: Is this overkill for a 34 foot cruising boat? I like the idea, but the expense is pretty high.ĭefinitely open to hearing what other SailNet members have to say on this subject, and any recommendations for particular devices. As for isolation transformers, looks like it's just the Charles units available, but I'm open to hearing about recommendations or otherwise on those as well. That said, what do you consider to be the appropriate practice here-is a galvanic isolator enough? If so, any recommendations on particular units? I'd like to get one with a capacitor (not just diodes). I've read Calder's info on both, and understand why the isolation transformer might be better, though there is a price tag associated with that. ![]() With the battery charger, I'd like to also install some additional protection from galvanic corrosion, since we'll start plugging in the boat more often (in the past, we didn't plug in much). I'll soon be installing a battery charger on board-in 26 years our boat apparently never had one.
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